If you have been formulating or sourcing ingredients for anti-aging skincare over the past fifteen years, you have almost certainly come across dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate, more commonly known by its trade name Syn-Ake.
This ingredient did not become a multi-million-dollar success story by accident. It works. And the data backing it up is unusually solid for a cosmetic active.
What exactly is Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate?
Name: Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate
CAS Number: 823202-99-9
Molecular Formula: C19H29N5O3.2(C2H4O2)
Molecular Weight: 495.58
Structurally, this compound is a synthetic tripeptide analog designed to mimic a specific sequence found in the venom of Temple Viper (Tropidolaemus wagleri). Specifically, it replicates the C-terminal end of Waglerin-1, a toxin that works by blocking nicotinic acetylcholine receptors (nAChRs) at the neuromuscular junction.
How It Works: The Mechanism of Action
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate functions as a competitive antagonist at the muscular nicotinic acetylcholine receptor (nAChR). In plain language, it temporarily blocks the chemical signal that tells your facial muscles to contract.
The effect is reversible and dose-dependent. Unlike botulinum toxin, which shuts down neurotransmission entirely for months, this peptide produces a milder, more transient reduction in contraction, typically measurable within hours of application.
Clinical Evidence
The foundational study (Pentapharm, IFSCC Congress 2006) included an in vivo trial with 45 human volunteers applying a cream containing 3-4% Syn-Ake twice daily for 28 days. Results reported up to 52% reduction in wrinkle depth with no adverse reactions.
Recommended Usage Levels
| Product Type | Raw Material Range | Pure Active Equiv. |
|---|---|---|
| Serum/Essence | 2%-5% | 0.35%-0.85% |
| Eye Cream | 1%-3% | 0.17%-0.5% |
| Day/Night Cream | 1%-4% | 0.17%-0.7% |
| Face Mask | 3%-6% | 0.5%-1.0% |
Note: Percentages refer to commercial raw material (typically 17-20% pure active). Always check your supplier’s COA for the exact assay.
Formulation Guidelines
- Water-soluble: dissolves in water/glycol blends, no heat required
- pH stable range: 4.0-7.0 ideal; avoid pH above 7.5
- Add during the cool-down phase below 40 °C for best stability
- Avoid prolonged direct contact with high-concentration L-ascorbic acid (>5%)
- Airless packaging is recommended over open jars
Best synergistic combinations
+ Argireline (dual nAChR blockade)
+ Matrixyl 3000 (repair + relax combo)
+ Niacinamide 2-5% (barrier support + penetration enhancement)
+ Low-dose Retinol/Bakuchiol (night repair synergy)
+ Hyaluronic Acid (instant plumping + long-term reduction)
Safety Profile
- LD50 > 5000 mg/kg (rat, oral) – essentially non-toxic
- Non-irritating at up to 5% in HRIPT testing
- No sensitization, phototoxicity, or mutagenicity detected
- Approved for cosmetics in the USA, EU, China, Japan, and Korea
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Syn-Ake the same as Botox? No. Both involve nAChRs, but Syn-Ake is a topical peptide with reversible, milder effects vs. an injectable neurotoxin with months-long action.
How long until the results? Measurable changes at 2-4 weeks of twice-daily use; continued improvement through week 6-8.
Safe during pregnancy? No reproductive toxicity signals at cosmetic levels, but consult your healthcare provider.
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate (CAS 823202-99-9) has earned its gold-standard reputation: clear mechanism, solid clinical data, easy formulation, clean safety profile. One tool in the toolbox, not magic. Best results when paired with complementary actives targeting both expression lines and structural repair.
Disclaimer: Informational purposes only. Not medical advice. Verify against local regulations before product launch.